Discover 13 Different Types of Flat Caps and Their Names
December 24, 2025Table of Content
Flat caps have been a part of life across the British Isles for centuries, especially in Scotland and Ireland, yet most people today still struggle to understand what makes each style different. At a glance, they all seem similar — a short brim, a rounded crown, and a classic heritage look — but the subtle variations in shape tell a much richer story.
From the wool caps mandated by British law in 1571 to the styles worn by Irish farmers, Scottish workers, and the sharp-suited characters of Peaky Blinders, the flat cap has evolved into a cultural symbol as much as a fashion accessory. In this article, you'll discover the most popular flat cap styles and their proper names, helping you understand their differences and choose the one that best fits your look.
A Brief History of Flat Caps
16th Century – Parliamentary Wool Act (1571)
Flat caps trace their earliest official roots to the English Wool Act of 1571, which required non-noble men to wear wool caps on Sundays and holidays to support the local wool industry. This law unintentionally cemented the flat cap as everyday headwear across England and Scotland.
17th Century – Everyday Working-Class Wear
By the 1600s, flat caps evolved from simple wool "bonnets" into a distinct style worn widely by farmers, craftsmen, and labourers. Their warmth, affordability, and practicality made them essential in rural and industrial communities.
18th–19th Century – Industrial Expansion
Late 19th to Early 20th Century – Cross-Class Popularity
1920s – The Newsboy and Driver Cap Era
Mid–20th Century – Decline and Niche Persistence
Late 20th Century to Present – Revival and Modern Fashion
The Two Main Families — Flat Cap vs. Newsboy Cap (Quick Visual Guide)
Before exploring the many regional names and modern variations, it’s important to understand that nearly all flat-cap styles fall into just two main families. These two silhouettes — the Ivy-style Flat Cap and the Newsboy-style Cap — form the foundation of every design you’ll encounter. Although they share a cultural heritage across Scotland, Ireland, and the wider British Isles, the two styles differ clearly in shape, construction, and overall character.
Feature | Flat Cap (Ivy Cap) | Newsboy Cap (Baker Boy / Gatsby / Shelby) |
Shape Profile | Sleek, low, streamlined | Full, round, voluminous |
Crown Construction | Usually one-piece or 3-panel | 8-panel crown meeting at the top button |
Brim Style | Sewn down (fixed, smooth slope) | Snap brim (can open/close) |
Side Silhouette | Triangular, sloping forward | Puffier, rounder outline |
Overall Look | Modern, minimalist, subtle | Vintage, expressive, heritage-driven |
Best For | Smart-casual, everyday wear | Bold, retro, statement styling |
Cultural Roots | Scotland, Ireland, Northern England | Early 20th-century workers, newsboys, and modern Peaky Blinders imagery |
The Ivy Cap (The Classic Silhouette)
The Ivy Cap is the most iconic shape in the entire flat-cap family — the sleek, low-profile style that most people instinctively picture when they hear the words “flat cap.” Known by several other names, such as the Driving Cap, Golf Cap, Sixpence, and in some regions the Scally Cap, it has long been associated with refined, understated style. Historically, this cap began as practical everyday headwear for working-class men in England and Scotland, valued for its warmth, durability, and affordability.
Over the centuries, it evolved into a popular accessory for students, middle-class professionals, golfers, and well-dressed gentlemen, bridging the gap between utilitarian function and smart-casual fashion.
Distinguishing Features
What sets the Ivy Cap apart is its low, streamlined profile that gently hugs the shape of the head, creating a clean silhouette with a smooth forward slope. Unlike the full, multi-panel construction of the newsboy cap, the Ivy Cap is usually crafted from a single continuous piece of fabric, though certain versions feature a three-panel design for a slightly tailored fit.
The brim is always sewn down, forming a unified structure that prevents any separation between the crown and the visor. This produces the signature sleek, aerodynamic shape — a defining characteristic that makes the Ivy Cap easy to recognize even from a distance.
Why It’s Popular
The Ivy Cap is widely considered the most wearable and universally flattering flat-cap style for modern men. Its minimalist silhouette makes it far less “costume-like” than the puffier newsboy cap, allowing it to blend naturally with contemporary outfits. It pairs effortlessly with smart-casual looks such as blazers, wool coats, overshirts, and leather jackets, and it also works well in casual settings like weekend errands or driving. For first-time flat-cap buyers, the Ivy Cap is the safest and most stylish entry point — polished, understated, and easy to incorporate into everyday wardrobes.
Common Variations
While the Ivy Cap has a recognizable core shape, several notable variations have developed over time, each adding a unique twist to the classic silhouette.
- The Driver (or Cabbie) Cap: It shares the same general profile but tends to have a slightly wider and fuller fit, especially toward the back of the crown. This gives it a bit more volume without drifting into newsboy territory. Throughout the early 20th century, this version became popular with chauffeurs, taxi drivers, and city workers who needed a practical yet stylish cap for long hours outdoors.
- The Ascot Cap: Unlike the soft fabrics typically used for flat caps, the Ascot is made from molded wool or felt, giving it a hard, perfectly rounded, sculpted shape. This stiffer construction creates a distinctly formal appearance, making it a favorite for dressier occasions or for men who prefer a more polished, tailored version of the classic flat cap.
The Newsboy Cap (The “Peaky Blinders” Style)
The Newsboy Cap is also known by names such as the Baker Boy, Apple Cap, Gatsby, Eight-Panel Cap, or even the Lundberg Stetson in certain contexts. This style became iconic thanks to its rounded, voluminous shape and timeless vintage charm. While the Ivy Cap embodies subtlety and clean lines, the Newsboy leans into a fuller, more expressive silhouette that immediately sets it apart.
Historically, this cap was worn by newspaper boys, urban workers, and tradesmen from the late 19th to early 20th century across the UK, Ireland, and the United States. Its casual structure, soft body, and distinctive paneling made it both practical for laborers and stylish enough for everyday wear.
Distinguishing Features
What makes the Newsboy Cap instantly identifiable is its eight-panel construction , where eight triangular fabric panels are stitched together and gathered at the top under a central decorative button. This design creates the signature rounded and fuller body , giving the cap more volume than the sleeker Ivy counterpart. Because the crown is not tightly structured, it often drapes softly or can be pulled slightly to the side, lending the cap an informal, relaxed feel.
The fabric used for Newsboy Caps is typically softer and more flexible — wool, tweed, cotton blends, or linen — allowing the crown to maintain that distinctive puff. Another defining feature is the brim , which is connected to the crown using a snap button rather than being permanently sewn down. This small detail gives wearers the choice between a firmer, closed look or a slightly open aesthetic, adding to the cap’s versatility. Together, these elements create a silhouette that is unmistakably vintage and comfortably expressive.
The Pop-Culture Connection
In recent years, the Newsboy Cap has gained tremendous visibility thanks to the runaway success of Peaky Blinders. The gritty atmosphere of early 20th-century Birmingham and the sharp styling of Thomas Shelby and his brothers brought the classic “Shelby Cap” back into the global spotlight.
Although the series popularized a stylized interpretation of the cap — often associated with an edgy, gangster-like flair — the real Newsboy Cap has much humbler origins. Before it became a fashion statement, it was the everyday headwear of newspaper runners, factory workers, dockhands, and laborers throughout the UK and Ireland.
Who Should Wear It?
The Newsboy Cap is ideal for individuals who are drawn to a bolder, more expressive look. Because of its fuller shape, it naturally adds volume to the upper head area, making it a great choice for men with wider, rounder, or more structured face shapes, as the cap helps balance proportions and soften angular features.
Its relaxed drape and nostalgic silhouette also make it perfect for those who enjoy vintage fashion, period-inspired outfits, or heritage streetwear. Whether paired with tweed coats, wool overcoats, leather jackets, or layered winter ensembles, the Newsboy Cap brings a strong sense of character to any outfit.
The Duckbill Cap (The Modern Hybrid)
The Duckbill Cap is one of the most contemporary evolutions within the flat-cap family, blending the heritage structure of classic flat caps with the sleeker lines of modern headwear. Sometimes referred to as the Pub Cap or Swoop Cap, this design has become increasingly popular in recent years thanks to its minimalist look and comfortable fit.
Unlike the traditional flat cap or the fuller newsboy cap, the Duckbill is shaped to closely follow the natural curvature of the head, resulting in a streamlined silhouette that feels both refined and casual.
Distinguishing Features
What makes the Duckbill Cap immediately recognizable is its unique shape, which sits precisely between a baseball cap and a classic Ivy Cap. It features a narrow, tapered front — resembling the curve of a duck’s bill — that slopes forward in a natural, fluid motion. This sharply tapering design gives the Duckbill its name and creates a silhouette that is much more fitted and contoured than other flat-cap varieties.
The body of the cap is usually more structured than an Ivy Cap but less rigid than an Ascot. The crown gently curves downward, following the shape of the skull, which creates a smooth, anatomical fit. This curvature allows the cap to stay secure even in windy weather while providing a refined, sculpted appearance from all angles.
Unlike the fuller Newsboy or the looser Irish flat caps, the Duckbill keeps everything tight, curved, and close to the head, resulting in a sporty yet polished look. Its construction often uses lighter materials such as cotton, linen, or soft wool, enhancing both breathability and comfort.
Style Vibe
The Duckbill Cap carries a decidedly sportier and more dynamic vibe compared to other flat caps. While the Ivy and Newsboy styles often evoke heritage—fields, countryside tweed, or early twentieth-century street life—the Duckbill feels at home in modern wardrobes. Its sleek lines make it an excellent choice for minimalist fashion, contemporary streetwear, and smart-casual outfits that prioritize clean silhouettes.
Because many Duckbill Caps are crafted from breathable materials like linen or lightweight cotton, they are particularly popular for spring and summer wear, offering the comfort of a cap without the bulk or heat of traditional wool flat caps. Its aerodynamic shape also makes it easier to pair with sunglasses, jackets, or simple T-shirts without feeling overly vintage or costume-like.
Decoding the Names — Regional & Cultural Slang
Flat caps have traveled through many parts of Scotland, Ireland, Wales, and later across the Atlantic to America, and along the way they collected a variety of cultural nicknames. These names do not describe new shapes or structural differences; instead, they reflect regional identity, local craftsmanship, or the communities that wore them.
Most of these terms refer to variations of the classic Ivy-style flat cap, with differences appearing mainly in materials, construction, or cultural association. Understanding these names adds depth to the world of flat caps, revealing how deeply they are tied to everyday life and heritage across the British Isles and Irish diaspora communities.
1. The “Paddy Cap” & “Irish Cap”
The terms “Paddy Cap” and “Irish Cap” are strongly rooted in Ireland’s long-standing tradition of wool weaving, particularly in the regions of Donegal and Kerry. These caps are most often made from Irish tweed, known for its rugged texture and distinctive flecks of color — a signature detail of Donegal craftsmanship.
While the overall silhouette typically resembles the Ivy Cap, the Irish version often has a slightly fuller back, giving it a softer drape and more relaxed fit compared with the tighter English-style Ivy. Historically worn by farmers, dock workers, and laborers in rural Ireland, this cap evolved into a symbol of Irish identity and craftsmanship.
2. The “Bunnet” (Scotland)
In Scotland, the flat cap has long been affectionately known as the “bunnet.” This term is deeply woven into Scottish working-class culture, especially in the industrial cities and rural farming communities of the Lowlands and Highlands. For generations, the bunnet was a daily essential, worn by shepherds, fishermen, factory workers, and miners who relied on its warmth and practicality in harsh Scottish weather. The bunnet is essentially a standard Ivy-style flat cap, often made from Scottish tweed or wool blends that reflect local weaving traditions.
3. The “Scally Cap” (USA/Boston)
The “Scally Cap” emerged not in the British Isles, but across the Atlantic in the Irish-American communities of Boston, where large waves of Irish immigrants settled during the 19th and early 20th centuries.
As Irish workers and laborers integrated into Boston’s blue-collar neighborhoods, the flat cap became part of their everyday workwear and quickly developed into a cultural symbol of pride, resilience, and working-class identity. The term “Scally” became a local nickname for the Ivy-style cap, emphasizing its roots within Irish-American street culture.
4. The “Dai Cap” (Wales)
In Wales, the flat cap has traditionally been associated with coal miners, hill farmers, shepherds, and rural working men. The nickname “Dai Cap” comes from “Dai,” a common Welsh name similar to “John” in English, reflecting how common the cap was among ordinary Welsh men. The Dai Cap typically resembles the Ivy style in shape, but like the Irish Cap, it often uses locally woven wool suited to the cool, damp Welsh climate.
Material Matters — Why Fabric Defines the Style
When it comes to flat caps, the fabric is far more than a surface detail — it shapes the cap’s structure, its seasonal comfort, its durability, and even the cultural meaning behind it. In Scotland and Ireland, where flat-cap traditions run deep, the material often reflects regional craftsmanship and centuries-old weaving techniques.
Tweed, tartan, herringbone, and patchwork styles each tell a different story about the land, the climate, and the heritage of the people who wore them. Choosing the right fabric is not just a matter of looks but a way to express identity, tradition, or personal style through an accessory that has stood the test of time.
1. Tweed (The Heritage King)
Tweed remains the most iconic and historically significant fabric for flat caps, especially in Scotland and Ireland. It was originally developed to withstand damp, windy climates, making it both practical and enduring. The two most famous traditions — Harris Tweed from Scotland and Donegal Tweed from Ireland — are renowned worldwide for their craftsmanship but differ in distinctive ways.
- Harris Tweed: It is handwoven in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, and is known for its structured patterns such as herringbone, checks, and subtle color blends inspired by the island landscape.
Donegal Tweed: On the other hand, it is instantly recognizable for its unique flecks of color, created by mixing small bits of dyed wool into the yarn. These colorful speckles — reds, greens, golds, blues — reflect the rugged hills and natural palette of County Donegal.
2. Tartan (The Clan Connection)
For those with Scottish roots — or simply a love for Highland culture — a tartan flat cap carries a sense of identity that goes beyond fashion. Wearing a cap in your family tartan is a bold way to honor ancestry, celebrate clan heritage, or showcase a personal connection to Scotland. Tartan caps often feature bright, distinctive patterns that reflect historic clan colors, making them more expressive than muted tweed styles.
3. Patterns Explained
Flat caps also differ not just by fabric, but by weaving patterns, each carrying its own history and aesthetic qualities.
Herringbone
The herringbone weave — a clean, repeating V-shaped pattern — is the most popular and widely recognized pattern used in flat caps. It creates a balanced, elegant texture that reads well both up close and from a distance. Many traditional Scottish and Irish caps feature herringbone because it adds subtle visual interest without overpowering the outfit.
Houndstooth
Houndstooth, known for its distinctive broken check pattern, adds a bolder, more dramatic texture. Historically seen in Scottish woven wool, this pattern offers a sharper, more graphic look and is often chosen by those who want their cap to stand out with a sense of retro sophistication.
Patchwork
Patchwork flat caps are a signature element of traditional Irish fashion. These caps are crafted by combining small sections of various tweeds — each with different colors, patterns, and textures. The result is a unique, handcrafted cap where no two pieces look exactly alike. Patchwork embodies Irish rural craftsmanship, reflecting a tradition of resourcefulness, creativity, and deep connection to local weaving.
How to Choose the Right Cap for Your Face Shape
Selecting the right flat cap is not only about choosing a style you like — it’s also about finding a shape that complements your natural features. Just as different hat silhouettes can change the balance of the face, flat caps create subtle shifts in proportion that can enhance or soften your overall appearance. Understanding how each style interacts with your facial shape helps you choose a cap that feels comfortable, flattering, and confident in your own.
1. Oval Face
Men with an oval face shape have the easiest time choosing a cap because their facial proportions are naturally well-balanced. Nearly every flat-cap style works harmoniously with an oval face, from the smooth, low-profile Ivy Cap to the fuller, vintage-inspired Newsboy Cap.
Because this face shape doesn’t require visual correction or compensation, you can pick a cap based purely on personal preference — whether you prefer a modern silhouette, a heritage look, or a seasonal material like linen, cotton, tweed, or wool. Oval faces are the most versatile, making this shape the ideal canvas for experimenting with different flat-cap designs.
2. Round Face
A round face typically features softer lines and equal width and height, so the goal is to choose a cap that adds a sense of structure or vertical lift. Newsboy Caps work particularly well because their fuller, slightly puffed crown adds both height and width, helping elongate the face and breaking up rounded proportions.
A structured Duckbill Cap can also provide a flattering option with its tapered, anatomical form that creates sharper contours. However, it’s best to avoid very flat or low-profile Ivy Caps, as they sit too closely to the head and risk emphasizing the natural roundness of the face instead of balancing it.
3. Square Face
Square faces are defined by strong angles, prominent jawlines, and a broad forehead. In this case, the ideal flat cap softens these sharper lines rather than accentuating them. The Newsboy Cap is an excellent choice here because its rounded, full crown adds softness and contrast.
Wearing the newsboy slightly tilted or slanted can further minimize the angularity of the face, introducing a bit of asymmetry that complements the overall structure. The softness of the cap’s drape, along with its classic eight-panel construction, naturally balances the bold geometry of a square face.
4. Long / Narrow Face
For men with long or narrow facial proportions, the right flat cap helps reduce the feeling of vertical length. The classic Ivy Cap, with its low, sleek profile and smooth downward slope, is ideal for shortening the appearance of the face and creating visual balance. Its compact shape prevents adding unnecessary height, which is important for avoiding an elongated look.
In contrast, high-crown caps such as some Newsboy variations can make the face appear even longer, so it’s best to avoid silhouettes that add too much volume at the top. A well-fitted Ivy Cap, especially in tweed or wool, offers the perfect blend of structure and proportion for this face shape.
Conclusion
Flat caps have evolved across cultures and generations, yet each style still carries its own charm, history, and personality. Understanding the different types and names helps you choose a cap that truly reflects your taste, whether you want something classic, regional, or modern. As you explore these styles, you'll find that the right flat cap does more than complete an outfit—it adds character, confidence, and a touch of timeless heritage to your everyday look.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the names of flat caps?
In Ireland, the hat is referred to as a paddy cap; in Scotland, it is called a bunnet; in Wales, it goes by the name Dai cap; and in the United States, it is known as either an English cap or an Irish cap. There are also many other names for it, including scally cap, cabbie cap, driver cap, golf cap, longshoreman cap, ivy cap, jeff cap, train engineer cap, and sixpence, among others.
What is a scally cap?
A scally cap is a regional style of flat cap commonly worn in Liverpool, Ireland, and Boston, known for its slimmer, sharper shape.
Which type of flat cap is the most popular?
The ivy cap is the most popular and widely recognized type due to its clean, streamlined shape.
What is the difference between an Ivy cap and a driver cap?
An ivy cap has a sleeker silhouette, while a driver cap has a slightly more defined, structured brim and a sportier look.